Cosmeceuticals Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series-3판

Cover image
Title page
Table of Contents
Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology
Copyright
Series Preface
Preface
Contributors
Dedications
List of Videos Online

Part 1 Defining the Cosmeceutical Realm

Introduction
1 Cosmeceuticals: Function and the Skin Barrier
Introduction
The function of the stratum corneum
The stratum corneum structure
The mechanics of dry skin
Effects of the environment on SC function
The barrier is a challenge for cosmeceuticals
Future prospects
References and further reading
2 Cosmeceutical Formulation Considerations
Introduction
Vehicles
Emulsions
Serums
‘Balm’ products
Delivery systems
Additional formulation considerations when developing cosmeceutical products
Conclusion
3 Evaluating Cosmeceutical Efficacy
Introduction
Instrumental methods that are related to visual assessments
Instrumental methods related to tactile assessments
Instrumental methods based on physiologic processes
Instrumental measurements based on physical properties
Conclusion
References and further reading

Part 2 Cosmeceutical Actives

Introduction
4 Retinoids
Introduction
Molecular biology of retinoids
Metabolism of cutaneously delivered retinoids
Conclusion
Further reading
5 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C
Introduction
Oxidative stress, aging skin, and vitamin C
Vitamin C: effects on collagen and elastin synthesis
Photoprotection by vitamin C
Vitamin C as an anti-inflammatory
Vitamin C inhibits melanogenesis
Delivery and metabolism of L-ascorbic acid and derivatives
Clinical studies confirming antiaging benefits of topical vitamin C
Conclusion
References and further reading
6 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin B
Introduction
Niacinamide
Panthenol
Discussion
Further reading
7 Physiologic Lipids for Barrier Repair
Introduction
Dynamics of barrier recovery
Clinical applications of the cutaneous stress test
Lipid composition of lamellar membranes
Lipid synthesis and requirements for the barrier
Nonphysiologic lipids: mechanism of action
Rationale for barrier repair therapy
Deployment of barrier repair therapy
Conclusion
References and further reading
8 Cosmeceutical Botanicals
Introduction
Most widely used herbs
Conclusion
References and further reading
9 Marine Cosmeceuticals
Sea water
Sea mud
Algae extracts
Chitin and chitosan
Marine collagen
Conclusion
Further reading
10 Cosmeceutical Metals
Introduction
Zinc in cosmeceutical products
Copper in cosmeceutical products
Selenium in cosmeceutical products
Aluminum in cosmeceutical products
Strontium in cosmeceutical products
Summary
References and further reading
11 Moisturizer and Barrier Repair Formulations
Introduction
General principles of fundamental skin care
Maintenance of normal skin integrity and water content
Physiologic epidermal barrier repair
Clinical impact of moisturizers
Significance of moisturizer application frequency
Significant components of moisturizer formulations
Characteristics and aesthetic properties of formulations
Vehicle delivery characteristics
The role of specialized ingredients in moisturization vs barrier repair
Therapeutic significance of moisturizer use
Conclusion
Further reading
12 Skin Lightening Agents
Introduction
Skin lightening cosmeceuticals
Methods to improve product delivery
Laser therapy
Conclusion
Further reading
13 Antiaging Benefit Ingredients: AHAs, PHAs, and Bionic Acids
Introduction
Alpha-hydroxy acids
Polyhydroxy acids and bionic acids
Gluconolactone: the most widely used PHA
Lactobionic acid: a polyhydroxy bionic acid
Maltobionic acid: a plant-derived bionic acid
Increased synthesis of dermal matrix components by PHAs and bionics
Antiglycation effects of PHAs and bionic acids
Use of PHAs and bionics in the dermatologist's office
Conclusion
References and further reading
14 Stem Cell Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Types of stem cells and their source
Skin stem cells
Use of stem cells in cosmetics
Human adipose stem cells in cosmetics
Human embryonic stem cells in cosmetics
Conclusions
References and further reading
15 Nutritional Antioxidants
α-Lipoic acid
Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10)
Genistein
Conclusion
References and further reading
16 Endogenous Growth Factors as Cosmeceuticals
Introduction
Photodamage effects on skin tissue
Biochemical pathways of skin aging
Growth factors in skin repair
Treating photodamaged skin
Topical application of growth factors
Combination: laser plus growth factors
Combination: growth factors plus antioxidants and retinoids
Sources of growth factors
Other delivery methods
Risks associated with growth factors
Maintaining growth factor stability
Conclusion
Further reading
17 Sunscreens
Introduction
Chemical sunscreens
Physical sunscreens
Rating efficacy
Photostability
Dosage and usage
Adverse events
Sunscreen controversies
New research
Further reading
18 Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis
Introduction
Vitamins
Hydroxy acids
Botanicals
Fragrances
Preservatives
Sunscreens
Emergent allergens
Patch testing
Further reading

Part 3 The Application of Cosmeceuticals to Dermatologic Practice

Introduction
19 Wrinkles and Fine Lines
20 Facial Redness
21 Dyspigmented Skin
22 Oily Skin
23 Dry Skin
24 Acne

Part 4 Cosmeceutical Myths

Introduction
25 Acne Cosmeceutical Myths
Cosmeceuticals do not produce acne if labeled noncomedogenic and nonacnegenic
Mineral oil is comedogenic
Sunscreens produce acne
Vitamin E capsules improve the appearance of scars
Glycolic acid application can reduce pore size
Tretinoin topically aids in the treatment of acne scarring
A complex skin care regimen of multiple cleansers, moisturizers, and ancillary skin care products is
necessary for clear skin
Breakouts after the age of 30 in women are rare and will benefit from special skin care
Cosmeceuticals cannot undergo reliable comedogenicity testing
Over-the-counter scar gels can aid in improving acne scars
26 Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths
Expensive moisturizers are more effective
Moisturizers remove wrinkles
Cosmeceuticals can produce beneficial effects on facial muscles to improve skin tone
Bleaching creams can improve brown spots quickly
Glycolic acid peels must hurt to be effective
Cosmeceuticals need to penetrate the skin barrier to work
Topical formulations of vitamins and supplements are similar to pills in effectiveness for skin improvement
Vitamin-containing products can reverse photoaging
Retinol in over-the-counter preparations works like prescription tretinoin
A sunscreen with an SPF above 15 does not provide additional photoprotection
Self-tanning cosmeceuticals provide sun protection
Nanoparticles increase antiaging cosmeceutical efficacy
Scarce cosmeceutical ingredients add cutaneous benefit
Lip plumping cosmeceuticals increase lip size
27 Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths
Hypoallergenic botanical cosmeceuticals do not produce allergic reactions
Preservative-free botanical cosmeceuticals produce fewer skin reactions
Botanical cosmeceuticals are natural
Botanically derived fragrances do not cause allergic contact dermatitis
Botanical cosmeceuticals can reduce sebum production
Antiperspirants contain chemicals that are not naturally derived and are therefore damaging to the sweat
glands
Botanicals and mineral cosmetics are safe and do not cause acne
Face masks with botanicals improve skin tone
All natural ingredients are safer in skin care products
Numerous botanicals in cosmeceuticals are better
Cleansers with ground botanical materials are good for deep cleaning pores
Topical botanical cosmeceuticals minimize postmenopausal skin changes

Part 5 New Research in Cosmeceuticals

Introduction
28 Gene Array Technology and the Search for Cosmeceutical Actives
Introduction
Basic principles of gene array analysis
Application of gene arrays to the identification and characterization of antiaging and anti-inflammatory
bioactive molecules
Gene arrays and the search for aging genes: the caloric restriction model
Conclusion
References and further reading
29 Future Cosmeceuticals of Dermatologic Importance
Introduction
Antioxidants
Polyphenols
Genistein
Idebenone
Global rejuvenation agents
Nanotechnology
Conclusion
Further reading
Summary: What is the Next Horizon for Cosmeceuticals?
Index